The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage that traverses across Spain to the resting place of the apostle Saint James, in Santiago de Compostela. Though it has grown significantly in popularity in the last few decades, people have been making this pilgrimage in one form or another for over a thousand years.
With an extensive network of pilgrim specific hostels or ‘albergues’, this trek provides many elements of a ‘thru-hiking’ experience without the need to carry a heavy pack full of camping gear. If you’re wondering what this trip might cost you, check out my article on planning a budget for the Camino.
In this post I cover the historical significance of the pilgrimage, as well as some logistics for completing it today, certificates and all.
Historical background
It is said that the remains of Saint James were brought to Santiago after he was martyred. He had spent time in Northern Spain and this was a logical resting place for him, as it was considered to be the westernmost known point in the world at the time.
Santiago is about 100km from the coast, at the crossroads of several trade routes, so it’s a convenient spot to place the remains. Still, today many pilgrims carry on past Santiago and finish their Caminos at Finisterra which gets it’s name from the Latin ‘finis terrae’, or the ‘end of the Earth’.
As early as the 9th century pilgrims began to make the trek across Spain to visit the supposed burial site of the apostle. Following old Roman trade routes through the countryside, the Spanish aristocracy would travel hundreds of kilometers to pay their respects to the saint.
Over the centuries Christians from around Europe began making the trip as well, and in 1492 it was given official status as a pilgrimage of Christendom.
Considered one of the ‘three great pilgrimages’ along with the trips to Jerusalem and the Via Francisgena to Rome, today it draws devout hikers from all over the world. The route is included on the UNESCO World Heritage list and has several buildings and monuments along the way of significance to both the Christian faith and world history.
What began as a religious pilgrimage has become much more secular in recent decades. As recently as 1985 there were only a few hundred pilgrims a year that would make the expedition across Spain. In the 90’s there was an effort to revitalize the trails and clearly mark the path for hikers.
With the revamped trail system in place, tourists started coming into Spain by the thousands which led to the creation of official publicly funded accommodations, commonly known as ‘albergues públicos’.
The success of the public accommodation gave rise to a number of privately owned bunkhouses, and hostels that help accommodate the crowds that descend upon Spain in the summertime each year.
There are several historical sites along the Camino that have plaques explaining their significance in multiple languages. Though some of these plaques may have translations, many are only available in the original Spanish. It’s important to keep in mind that as a guest in a foreign country, it is ultimately your responsibility to translate when necessary.
If you’re thinking of studying some Spanish before you head out on your Camino adventure, check out my post on learning a language for travel.
Modern Camino Routes
- Camino Francés (491 miles/ 790 km) – The most popular Camino route, by far. Roughly 55% of pilgrims who completed a Camino in 2021 did the French Way.
- Camino del Norte (512 miles/ 823 km) – Considered by many to be the most difficult Camino, this route is also one of the most beautiful. This option is difficult because the path often winds down to the seashore only to climb back up again. Not recommended for those with knee problems.
- Camino Primitivo (200 miles/ 321 km) – The oldest established route, starting in the Asturian town of Oviedo. If you are considering this route I recommend scheduling an extra day to check out the city. It can also be linked up with the Camino del Norte which is the route that I took on my 2022 pilgrimage.
- Camino Portugués (383 miles/ 616 km) – The main variation coming up from Portugal. This route saw roughly 20% of the Camino traffic in 2021.
- Camino Inglés (75 miles/ 120 km) – The shortest Camino, starting in Ferrol. Though it’s not as much of an experience as completing the other Caminos, for those short on time this is an excellent option and can be completed in roughly 6 days.
There are several different routes starting from various points around Europe, and with different levels of difficulty based on the terrain.
To receive the ‘compostela’, or the official certificate stating that you have completed a pilgrimage, you need to complete at the very least the final 100km leading to Santiago. As you go you’ll need to collect stamps in your pilgrim passport to prove that you have actually completed the hike, which I’ll explain in the next section.
Credencial / Pilgrim Passport
As you start your Camino hike you’ll need an official ‘credencial’ if you want to get the certificate of completion from the pilgrimage. While most pilgrims walk their way to Santiago, it’s also possible to complete the Camino on horseback or by bicycle, though they have slightly different rules to get the official stamps. In order to receive the official paperwork you have to walk at least the final 100km to Santiago or 200 km if traveling by bike.
For most of the pilgrimage you’ll just receive one stamp per day in your pilgrim passport, but in the final 100km you’ll need to get two stamps per day to prove that you really did walk it. In the summer of 2022 I walked the ‘Camino del Norte’ and had a whole book full of stamps, so they didn’t look too closely at my stamps when I was getting my ‘compostela’. But if you are only doing a short hike then I would make sure to secure enough stamps in the final days to get your certificate.
Not only does the pilgrim passport allow you to receive the official paperwork confirming you completed the hike, it also grants you access to the pilgrim-specific hostels and in some places, lunch deals. If you arrive in Spain without one you can purchase an official stamp book at any albergue along the way for just a few euros.
Where to stay on the Camino
There is a huge range of options when it comes to lodging, all of which have their up and down sides.
Private Hotels and Hostels
If you have deep pockets and would prefer to be alone at night there are hotels in most cities that you walk through. There are even services that will carry your pack and drop it off at your final stop for the day, so your bags can travel ahead of you and will be waiting when you arrive. Note that this is only possible at albergues or hostels that take reservations in advance. If you’re traveling with another person you can often find a private room for two for 20-40 euros.
Albergues
If you are traveling on a budget there are albergues with shared rooms of up to 50 people, where you sleep in a bunk bed and are provided with a paper sheet and pillow cover for your bed. The public albergues are the cheapest option and they have a strict first come, first serve policy. These can range in price anywhere from 5 to 15 euros a night but on average cost me around 12 euros for a bunk. Occasionally you’ll also receive a pilgrims breakfast of coffee and some bread or snacks the next morning.
The ‘private’ albergues often cost slightly more but they do allow for reservations which means you can secure a spot in advance. Many pilgrims find that the ability to make concrete plans is well worth the 4 or 5 euro difference in price compared to the public albergues.
Albergues Donativos
There are also several places called ‘donativos’, or donation based hostels, that allow you to pay whatever you think the service was worth. I found wild variations from one donativo to the next but I had some of my best experiences in these types of albergues. Some of them include dinner and breakfast in a group setting, warm showers and beautiful facilities while others had nothing in the way of amenities like laundry, food or cooking facilities.
Upon arriving to an albergue you’ll present the host with your pilgrim stampbook and they’ll give you a stamp and then sign and date beneath it. This serves as proof that you have indeed been walking the whole way. At the end of the trip you’ll have a nice souvenir to take home to remind you of all of the different places you’ve stayed.
I would highly recommend bringing at least one pair of earplugs if you’re sleeping in a public albergue, since many pilgrims tend to snore. After about a week you’ll get used to the noise but I find it best to be prepared, just in case. Some pilgrims go as far as to bring sleeping masks, so if you’re a light sleeper keep that in mind.
Food and Drink on the Camino
While walking the Camino it’s almost inevitable that you are going to lose a little bit of weight. Most pilgrims average around 15-25 kilometers per day and if you’re carrying a heavy pack you’ll work up quite an appetite.
The nice thing about doing a pilgrimage that passes through cities and towns is that there are food options along most of the way. You’ll pass by supermarkets, restaurants, cafes and convenience stores where you can pick up snacks, water, grab a coffee or eat an entire meal. If there are only a few spots to stop for coffee you’ll probably know it because there will often be a group of pilgrims huddled outside that cafe.
The ‘Menú Peregrino’ is offered by many restaurants along the way and is an affordable option to get back some of the calories lost on the trail. This normally comes with a starter, main course and dessert and comes with a drink and a healthy portion of bread. On average you can expect these meals to cost somewhere between 12-15 euros. For a three course meal with drink included I’d say that’s a pretty good deal.
Keep in mind that in Europe the tipping culture is very different from the one in the US. If you enjoyed the meal you can round up the bill but overall a percentage based tip is not expected.
Socializing on the Camino
People walk the Camino for all types of different reasons. Many of them have fascinating stories from their colorful lives. Socializing on the Camino de Santiago is one of the many joys of making this massive trek across Spain.
Whether you are hiking on your own or with some friends or loved ones, you’ll eventually start to build up what many people call a ‘Camino Family’. A ‘Camino Family’ is a tight-knit group of people who bond together while hiking the Camino de Santiago. If you’re curious about the people you’ll meet, check out my article on types of people you’ll meet walking the Camino.
There really is nothing more rewarding than arriving at the cathedral in Santiago with the people who have walked the same journey as you. Whether or not you walked the Camino to make friends from all over the world it is a wonderful side effect.
I am still in contact with many of the pilgrims that I met on my Camino. The people are what made my hike such an unforgettable experience and I’m sure yours will be unforgettable too.
Parting Thoughts
If you’ve made it this far you’re probably more than a little bit interested in doing this hike some day. Whether that’s for religious reasons, sport or adventure travel this hike is a great excuse to spend some time in the less traveled parts of Spain.
One common question I get is about the type of camera that people should bring on their Camino. While there are an infinite number of options, I go through some of the best options in this post on choosing a camera for your Camino.
I can only see this trek growing more popular over the coming years. So if you decide to be one of the hundreds of thousands of people doing this route, make sure to leave the trail cleaner than you found it so that the pilgrims following after you can have the same quality experience that you did.
If you find yourself thinking that you’d like to walk a Camino but there’s no way your spouse or friends would join you, take a look at my guide for walking the Camino on your own.
In case you’re thinking you might try this hike some day or if you have already done it, leave a comment down below! I’d love to hear your trail stories from the Camino or the things that I missed in this article.
Further Reading
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camino_de_Santiago
Info about backpack transport
https://galiwonders.com/en/blog/https-galiwonders-com-en-blog-camino-santiago-statistics-2021/#:~:text=Origin%20of%20pilgrims,due%20to%20difficulties%20when%20traveling
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